OFF THE BEATEN PATH
Every Sunday, dirt roads throughout Baja beckon me. My trusty grandson, Gabriel and I find some of the most secluded, beautiful places in Baja…Allow us share our experiences with you each issue. If you have a great spot off the beaten path, let me know, we’d love to check it out and share.
Agua Verde: Paradise with Azure Sea!
Baja´s Mexican Federal Highway runs the length of Baja for 1711 km (1063 miles) from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas. If you have driven this highway, you know there are spectacular vistas and places to stop. As much as a blessing this road is, the tendency not to venture off onto the side roads is indicative of our fast-lane lives that leaves a lot of Baja “undiscovered¨ to the 21st Century explorer. Let me try and help you to stop and venture off the highway.
There exists a stretch of beach from the turn northward on Highway 1 between Insurgentes and Loreto, basically Punto Puertecito, and to the south, at the small town of San Evanisto on the East Cape, probably close to 300km.s, that few people see or experience. Boaters have enjoyed the beautiful coves and bays, used as havens to rest or play in undisturbed land and seascapes, and magnificent scenic vistas of the profuse islands off the coast. Few others have ventured here.
My visit to Agua Verde, the very small pueblo to the north, started just before the turn on Highway 1, described above, onto a dirt road heading south. There is a small sign saying ¨Agua Verde¨. It is about 41 km of a graded, mainly one-lane road through the Sierra La Giganta range of mountains with some surprising vistas along the way The short trek ends at one of the most beautiful coves of teal waters I have ever seen. Maybe two families live here in the cove subsisting on the bounty of the sea. An additional dozen families live over the hill in a more protected valley. Fishing and goat herding seem to be their main economic endeavours. The accessible area for cars is limited in this cove, but if you ask the families, for a small fee you can camp on their pristine shores. (Good News: This road has now been paved as of 2014.)
As I was exploring a property for sale south of this pueblo, I was privileged to be taken on one of the fisherman’s´ pangas an additional 40 km.s south by sea for this tour. The terrain along the coastline is varied from mountain cliffs dying at the water’s edge to beautiful protected
bays sometimes dotted with schooners or sailboats and an occasional valley opening up behind the water’s edge. The fishermen, for a fee and gasoline, will charter their pangas to take you on a sightseeing tour, or to deliver you to a nearby cove to camp. If you have time, it is best to arrange the particulars about the trip in advance, but as they do not have electricity or telephones here, this may mean additional time or trip to arrange. Relax, enjoy, and go with the flow. Remember, you are on vacation. I am told by locals, that these fishermen can also be chartered to take you fishing off the coasts to the islands as well. And, I would say, they are the local experts to know where the best fishing is. There are some charter fishing companies online that serve this area as well, such as Mexfish.com. And along this coastline, many companies have fishing camps established for their clientele. Or Baja Outdoor Adventures out of La Paz, who present boating, camping, kayak and snorkelling trips to this remote coastline...
There is another route to this desolate coastline. It is a road beginning from near the center of Constitution paved, and proceeding through the mountains and mesa as a dirt road. Ask the locals for directions. It travels northeast through Ley Federales de Aguas 4 and 5, Mesa Anquitos and Mesa Eluardo before ending at a secluded bay on the coast. The road is used mainly by self-employed fisherman and rancho owners, so it is not well maintained and is a very difficult road. This route takes about 4-1/2 hours one way from Constitution. For this reason, if you don’t have much time, use the northern route. Your total one way trip from Los Cabos will be about 6 hours.
If you are planning a camping venture, take everything you need with you. There are no services or stores to make an emergency run to, so plan well. Remember to take all of your trash out with you.
Degree of difficulty: NOW EASY. Newly Paved Road. Come BEFORE it all gets developed!